I am yet to find the words to express the feeling of the first wave I surfed,These surfers from across the oceans wrote poems ,which relate to that feeeeling of being propelled by sheer wave force.Handing over to them to share with you
Surfing
It’s not the waves you catch,
How hard or how strong.
It’s the wind in your hair,
The ocean’s song.
Knowing you can’t,
Almost certain you can.
Endless blue,
With a bare sight of land.
Getting to know the oceans,
Dolphins and fish your friends.
Too many mistakes,
That you need now not mend.
The loss of all worries,
The bad, the worst.
Nothing is practiced,
Nothing rehearsed.
The surfer’s only knowledge,
Of what’s going on,
Is the coming of the waves,
In the wake of the dawn.
?2004Sasha Walker/Mills
Read more of such poetry at http://go-surfer.com/poems-surfing.htm
Wave
moving, rising
reaching, grasping, encasing
tumbling, rumbling
crashing, smashing
Wave.